Higginson

The Higginson is a very small volume device. The check valves in the bulb have a very small bore that reduces the flow to a trickle. The bulb only holds about four ounces and it can take forever of constant squeezing to achieve a fill.

I use a ten ounce bulb which has check valves with a 5/16 tubing bore and will empty a gallon jug in four minutes or less. The total cost to make the valves might be as much as thirty cents. It is of my own design. If there is any interest in how to make one like it, I will publish a step by step description here with pictures of the assembly in the gallery.

The higginson is a very small volume device. The check valves in the bulb have a very small bore that reduces the flow to a trickle. The bulb only holds about four ounces and it can take forever of constant squeezing to achieve a fill. I use a ten ounce bulb which has check valves with a 5/16 tubing bore and will empty a gallon jug in four minutes or less. The total cost to make the valves might be as much as thirty cents. It is of my own design. If there is any interest in how to make one like it, I will publish a step by step description here with pictures of the assembly in the gallery.

PLEASE PLEASE. My husband is a great do-it-yourselfer, and I get most of the benefit. I'll make sure he gets to benefit from it too. 😁

I would love a higginson that has a greater output than the original.

[quote author=bob/bill link=topic=265.msg413596#msg413596 date=1326813116]

I have found that Higgenson delivers a weak flow even attached to a high can or bag. .....

[/quote]

But the Higginson is not designed for connection to a can or bag, bob/bill. It is a stand alone device and the suction end is designed for immersion in a water container and the bulb is then squeezed to deliver the water into the rectum. Releasing the bulb draws more water from the container, and so on. If you are using a can or bag then you may as well do away with the bulb and one-way valve and substitute an on/off clamp.

One fault is manifest in the cheap Chinese made imitations and that is that they are usually only fitted with a one-way valve, at the suction end, whereas the original Higginson had another in the delivery pipe to prevent back flow into the bulb when it was released.

Right about that BigK. Still, the Higginson is a shockingly exciting piece of equipment worthy of admiration. In the hands of a mature woman I am ready to accept what she and the Big H can do for me.

By the way, how about letting me back into the forum on a trial basis? I have been exiled for years now.

~ Bob/bill

I wouldn't normally discuss a ban in a public place bob/bill, but you raised it here.

You are not banned from the Forum - for that indeed is where you are posting. There is a chat room ban though.

On your behalf I will raise the issue with the Moderator Team and let you know privately.

Hello my friends,

The Higginson with plastic or silicon tube have a little flow, you can correct this by hanging higher the bag .

Also using this device approximately 27 years , I have to change because it was "used" , and I see a larger flow with a rubber Higginson as with a plastic or silicon one.

Using a small rope and a pulley you can adjust quickly the elevation of the bag, easy when starting alone or no leaks at the insertion of the nozzle, adding a clamp for safety or for resting a while (or massaging, masturbating, cuddling, what ever .....); the only advantage of the Higginson on this system is that a squeeze will give a peak of flow and feelings, is oh so good .

There is also a gasoline Higginson pump in rubber that is sold for boats,

My penny for my come back,

Arthur

A SMALL DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE CHECK VALVE AND HIGGINSON TYPE PUMP

By K2MMW

Before beginning go to:

http://www.zity.biz/index.php?mx=gallery;ox=showcat;c=4489

Which contains instructive photographs concerning this paper. The photographs there may not be in order but are captioned to help tie this epistle together. I number these photos from right to left with the first being a picture of the completed syringe. Here I will call it Photograph 1.

The answer to reflux in any fluid system is to use a device that only allows water to flow in one direction while blocking the reverse flow. Such a device is called a check valve. It is analogous to the electrical diode that permits electric current to flow in only one way.

After contemplating this problem, the author devised a low pressure check valve. These check valves are the heart of my Higginson type pump. Constructing the valves will be accomplished first. The completed unit is shown in Photograph 2 below.

Photograph 2

Completed Check Valve

Tools and Materials

The rest of this article describes how to make one for yourself from materials found in the trash barrel. Only a stick of thermal setting glue needs to be purchased.

The items required are:

1. Three, one and one half inch threaded

bottle necks cut from two plastic bottles

2. Six inches of silicon rubber tubing

3. Two threaded bottle caps from the above bottles

4. One sheet of light gauge plastic wrap

5. One thermal setting glue stick.

6. One Plastic Tee Barb ½ inch.

7. One feminine douche bulb syringe

8. Heat source such as a propane torch or alcohol lamp

9. Needle nose piers

10. Electric drill

Bottle Necks

See Photo 3

Of this short bill of materials, the most difficult to obtain are the bottle necks because they require work! They are cut with a fine toothed saw, such as a hack saw or band saw, to remove the threaded neck from the rest of the drink bottles. To do this, remove the cap from the bottle and observe that there is a small lip or flange that provides a stop for the cap. The underside of this lip is the place where you make your cut. Cut two or three of these bottle necks. Two of them will be used to make the body. The third bottle neck that you just cut is a depth gage for setting the stem so it makes proper contact with the diaphragm.

When you are finished cutting, sand the bottle neck lips be flat and square, The requirement for flatness is because this is the area where the two bottle necks will be glued together with a plastic sheet them to form the perforated diaphragm and the body of the valve. It will need to be water tight.

The Valve Body

See Photo 4

While the necks are at hand, we can put the plastic sheet between them and form the diaphragm. First lay out a sheet of plastic cut from a thin plastic bag or kitchen film etc. Next, heat the hot glue to the melting point and warm the freshly cut bottle neck lip at the same time. Apply the glue evenly to the flat surface of the bottle neck’s lip. When a thin layer of glue covers the lip, set the neck, glued surface down, onto the smoothed plastic sheet. This glues the sheet to the lower opening of the bottle neck and seals it closed. When the glue cools, trim away the access sheeting with a pair of scissors and set it aside. The second bottle neck should now have glue applied to its lip in the same manner. When the glue is on the second lip, set it on the lip of the first so that it is glued to the other side of the plastic sheet. Now the two bottle necks are glued together separated by a single plastic diaphragm that is water and air tight from both sides. After gluing the second neck to the diaphragm, let it cool.

The Diaphragm and Caps

See Photo 5 5a and 5B

The problem now is that fluid can not get through the diaphragm during forward flow. To solve the situation, a thin, red hot wire is used to melt two openings along the inside diameter of the body. These holes are approximately 90 degrees long and 90 degrees apart. This assembly now forms the body of the valve. To complete the assembly of the body, spread a band of hot glue around the outside of the joint of the two lips as seen in photographs 4 and 5. Photo 5 shows the stem in contact with the diaphragm in the left hand portion of the photo.

The Stem, Coupler and Bottle Caps

See Photographs 5, 5A, 6 and 7

Next turn your attention to the bottle caps and the thermo-plastic tubing that pierces them. Possibly the most obvious source for the two tubes is to use the barrel of a pen. Another source is a dollar store, where children's toys that are made of plastic tubes abound. (A jump rope found in such a store, supplied the author I:\with over twenty, two inch long, tube segments!) One might also try the plumbing, hardware stores or a search around one's own home for cleaning tools such as feather dusters which

occasionally have plastic tubing handles. The tube you select should also be of thermo-plastic and have an outside diameter of three eighths of an inch (10 mm). That diameter is slightly larger than the standard 5/16 inch vinyl plastic tubing that will be coupled to it.

Cutting and Modifying the Tube Segments

Cut one tube segment at approximately three inches long and the other one approximately four inches. Now, flare one end of both tube segments by warming one end of each over the slow flame of a propane torch or alcohol lamp. Insert a mandrel, I use a twist drill, the same size as the inner diameter of the tube and push the warm end lightly onto a table top and form a lip or bell shape on the end. The short tube segment is designated the coupler while the longer is the stem. These tubes may now be temporarily put aside for a few minutes while the bottle caps are modified.

Drilling the Bottle Caps

Both of the bottle caps need small holes drilled in the center of their tops. Since the tubes we will be inserting are 1/4 to 7/16 inch O.D. every attempt should be made to drill the caps to no more than three sixteenths of an inch. This is to ensure a tight fit when the connecting tubes are inserted. Start the holes by finding the center of the caps and with a small twist drill to start a pilot hole from the caps’ outside center.

See Photographs 5A and 5B

Heating the Hole

Now, the hole needs to be expanded. To expand the small hole, heat the area around the hole with a small flame. To heat the cap evenly, sight the flame through the hole from the cap’s under side. Heat approximately three seconds or

until the plastic becomes pliable. Next push a small conic shape, such as a pencil, from inside the cap and push it through while keeping the point centered to expand the hole a little more. Reheat the hole if necessary. Next center one of the plastic tubes from the inside of the cap into the warm hole and push it through. The end result should be a hole with the fillet rising on the outside of the cap and a tight fitting tube piercing the cap as in photograph 5A and 5B. Now do the same with the other cap and tube combination.

See Photographs 3 and 7

The Stem

Cementing the tubes into the bottle caps is the next and very important step. Locate the third bottle neck and screw a holed cap onto it! You are almost finished modifying the caps. The next operation is to cement the stem in place. Here again the thermo setting glue sticks seem to work best. Form a ring of glue near the unmodified end of the stem and insert it into the hole in the cap and bottle neck, depth gage combination. Here is where the contact distance between the stem and the diaphragm is set. Now, invert the assembly and push the stem down on a flat surface. The smooth end of the stem should have wiped the hot glue into place and protrude from the outside of the cap and be square with it. See Photograph 5B.

See the right hand portion of Photograph 5 and 5B

The Coupler

Turn your attention to the coupler and the procedure is nearly the same as that of forming the stem. The exception is that the flared end of the coupling tube is pulled flush with the inside of the bottle cap. The non-flared end is gets a hot glue ring and is pushed and pulled through the inside of the bottle cap. The glue is wiped to the flared end of the tube. The flare of the short coupling seats in the recess of the cap and is held in place by the glue. At this point, be sure that the tube is loosely seated in the bottom of the cap. If the coupling is pulled flush and tight with the bottle cap, the glue will be dispersed and the strength of the joint will be weakened. Be sure that the coupler portion on the outside of the cap remains perpendicular to the cap while the glue cools.

See Photograph 1

In the Higgy application, two of these valves were attached to each other by a “T” tubing connector such that the uni-directional flow was maintained. To do this, both valves must be pointed in the same direction. The base of the “T” provides an injection port for a bulb syringe forming an in line type hand pump. See Photograph 2. You will need to make two check valves like those discussed above to configure a Higginson style pump.

To use these valves to form a Higginson type pump, the assembly process is much simpler than the assembly of the valves previously discussed. The main feature of the pump is a ten ounce feminine douche syringe. To Convert the syringe for this use can be almost painful! This is because it requires the constructor to cut the tip of rubber nozzle of a newly purchased syringe. Make the cut below the exit holes in the nozzle’s end. The water supply hole in is exposed. Dispose of the end of the pipe and small holes! Insert a ½ inch tee barb’s base port into the nozzle’s channel.

In Photograph 1, you will note that a hose clamp is wrapped around the bulb where the nozzle enters the bulb. This is done to stop leakage between the nozzle and the bulb. Also, the nozzle is elastic so the clamp can not be tightened. A piece of half inch plastic tube inserted into the nozzle at the threaded end gives the clamp a hard surface to tighten against.

As before, reverse flow is prevented because both valves are closed. To start forward flow from a full reservoir or tank, simply squeeze the bulb. The outlet valve closes while the inlet valve opens to allow water to be sucked out of the tank. When constant flow from positive head pressure of the reservoir is desired at any time, simply stop pumping the bulb and both of the series valves will open.

In conclusion, I have used these valves and Higginson type pump for the for several years and found them to be durable and functional. Reverse flow and leakage can be nearly negligible but depends on the attention to detail of the construction. Since the bottle caps remain threaded and screw into the valve body a quick and easy break point for nozzle change is built in. Disassembly is quite easy and the units can be washed, sanitized and air dried for the next use.

The author invites your comments. Please address your correspondences via e-mail to: k2mmw@yahoo.com

I bought a Higginson syringe from amazon.com and just tried it for the first time for my enema.

I did a couple bags full first to clean out. The Higginson was very easy to use. I filled up a bowl full of warm water, probably about 2 quarts put it in the center of the tub then sat in the tub with the bowl in between my legs and i pushed the nozzle in me and started pumping. The bulb, itself, was a little hard to pump and squeeze but other than that it was very easy to use. I didn't have any cramps at all from it maybe because it was such a short tube and pump. But easy to use. Good fill and good results.

Was it a red rubber Higginson or a silicone Higginson? I have a silicone one. It's difficult to squeeze the bulb and it seems like it just pumps air or nothingness instead of water. I've only tried it a few times and gave up. It might just be too complicated for me.

Go to my album entitled, "Home Grown Higgy Type Pump" and make your own one way, Check, valves from bottle caps and a bulb syringe.

A good substitute is a outboard motor in-line pump. It is the same thing, and is more easily available. (as i notice Grumpy said)

It is important to clean whatever bulb you are using when done. Salt particularly is hard on the valves. A few squirts with clean water seems to solve the problem and extend life.

Have had several over the years, one in particular stands out as it didnt really do much,as egirlky is saying, as im mechanically minded, i got to looking at it and soon realised there were two one way valves, one either side of the rubber bulb,and that they were both fitted the same way around, so that as soon as the bulb filled, the water just got sent back into the bowl instead of into me !turned one around, and hey presto... it worked.

Another thing that ive had happen is that a small peice of hair, i guess pubic or anal in origin can get sucked into the unit, then gets stuck in a valve, which is then unable to seal properly, thus reducing effectiveness, the cure on mine was a strip out of the valves for a good clean, but of course then be wary of which way around you put them back or its back to square one, see above !

Adding a good quality Higginson I bought from Optimal Health and worked out quite well. The cost was reasonable and their service excellent will maintaing absolute discretion.

I did order the clamps as well and found the hose slipped off the upper end very easily. Adding a clamp below the barb on the bulb inlet has cured that little problem. Now I have the option of getting the flow going with a good full squeeze or pulse-pumping on the ball for a little added pleasurable sensation.

My experience with Mr. Higginson was that his bulb was too small and didn't give a satisfying surge as a douche bulb does. I think that the flow of enema is restricted by the diameter of the tube, nozzle.

Yes, Walmart's marine gasoline pump bulb works - and so does one from Harbor Freight (a wonderful place to look around if you're gadget-oriented). You can also attach a barium-enema nozzle to the end, put the input line into your toilet reservoir, insert the nozzle and lay down in the tub and have a wonderful long experience. Just remember to splash some bleach around the tub after you are done.

Like Analee, I too love the sound of of a Higginson's syringe being slowly pumped, the tiny click-click of the two valves as they open and shut, and the vague sucking sound as the bulb refills itself. Done best in a warm twilight room, in almost complete silence. Especially nice if it's a dominant woman in charge who encourages you with "I think I'll just give you a couple more pumps" and ignores your increasing protests that you're full up and can't take any more.The noise is even more stimulating if there is a little air in the tubing.

Funny that The Road to Wellville is so hard to get. Mine came from Greece. The film was panned when it came out, but in fact is a great production with some fine actors.

I like to use my "Higginson" (not a real one, probably) once in a while. Not so easy to use when you are alone. I works, though, when I connect the valve to the tube of my enema kit. I've got the feeling that I get the water relatively high in that way so that the enema is easier to hold.

I like to fill my bathtub with warm water and dr.bronners soap. I can relax in the tub and fill myself with the soapy solution in complete comfort. It is amazing just how much you can take, and how long you can hold it, while immersed in the relaxing water. For members complaining about the tube wearing out near the bulb, go to a boat supply store and purchase a fuel transfer bulb. They are larger and more durable, have dual check valves and dual barbs. With a little bit of tubing, you can connect your favorite nozzle and enjoy!

I use one that I made out of an outboard motor gas tank hose from Wal-Mart, works great for a change of pace. I love the feel of the sudden squirts as you pump.

As a matter of fact, I just received two of them in the mail today, ordered through EBay. Can't wait to try them out in a few minutes!

OMG that was intense - I received two new Higginson hand pumps in the mail today. I hooked them up in parallel with two Tee fittings, connected the inlet side to my big red bag, connected the outlet to an inflatable nozzle, inserted and inflated the nozzle, opened the shutoff clamp, and alternately squeezed each bulb one after the other until the bag was empty. The alternating shots of warm water created a WOW sensation right up till the bag was empty and I reached the point of erotic discomfort!

I have a piston syringe using a kid's squirt gun and two of my home made bottle cap check, one way, valves.I also have and use a douche bulb syringe with check valves. I have published construction articles on both of these that work much like a Higgy here on Zity.

Not something I use. I AM however literate enough to realize its called a Higginson syringe, not Higgenson!

Congratulations,50 pumps is a lot. I used to watch my mother give my sister enemas with a Higginson and am now addicted to using it when I give them.

I remember I used to count the squeezes, when she got them, and the average was around 20 or so.

She didn't rush them, but she did squeeze the bulb tight and fast as I remember to make sure she got a lot in.

When I Googled "Higgerson" their server corrected me to "Higginson" and listed several referrences using the Higgenson spelling. In my personal experience I have never encountered the Higginson spelling before on this site or any other.

As to the "50 pumps," that manual exercise is the reason that I do not use a HIGGINSON. To pump a gallon enema with a ten ounce bulb would take about 15. I still like my piston pump which takes about 30. The easiest method for me is to hang the bag high enough so pumps are ancillary and not the main method of injection.

Hi liquidsky, you can use a Higginson and adjusting the elevation of the bag. Adjusting the elevation for a slow or medium flow and using the Higginson to give some extra flow a t the crucial moments of your fantasy.

Harbor Freight has a bulb type battery filler for $2.99. I bought two

One note about items from Harbor Freight, other than name brand stuff, all comes from China. Ever notice the strong smell when you walk into one of their stores?

It is the smell of chemicals out-gassing. It could be from the insulation in electric motors or from rubber and other items. Their rubber items, air hoses, battery syringes, etc, are junk, they don't last long, you will notice the rubber cracking, as the "plasticizers" leave the material.

A plasticizer is a chemical that makes the plastic flexible, it is that "new car smell" you notice in a car on a hot day, chemicals leaving the plastic. It is that scum on the inside windows of your car, as the plastic out-gasses. As time goes on the plastic becomes brittle and cracks.

I'm sure that China doesn't have much control on what chemicals are in their products, so you have to think about it, do you really want Harbor Freight rubber and plastic inside you? I have one of their battery syringes too, mine is cracking where the hard plastic tube goes into the rubber bulb (if it is even rubber.)

Just a thought - the hoseman1