Home made fucking machine.

I am in the process of building my own fucking machine. I want to find out what it feels like to really get hammered in the bum. I am to shy to meet up with another guy to experiment with the real thing so this is what I'm going to do. I have pretty decent mechanical knowledge as I work on aircraft for a living. I'm going to make it with quick disassembly in mind. I will be using a drill press for the drive, a dining room dimmer switch to control the speed and all the rods and linkage will be made from stuff I had laying around or had to purchase. When it is complete I will post pictures of it and video if I can.

A variable speed jig saw with a device made from a blade shank so it will lock in and any size shape of a brush handle or what ever attached to that shank.

Sounds very hot to me, but kind of dangerous?

Here is another

http://www.kinky-engineering.info/DIYfuckmachine.htm

A dewalt sawzall with a blank works great. It has a short stroke but is extremely fast. My wife came within a minute and had to stop because of her clit being too sensitive. One night after a few drinks, I tied her up and used it on her til she begged me to stop. Of course I kept on and she orgasmed countless times until she ejaculated a ton onto the bed. Now she loves it.

If you live in Canada, see if there is a Princess Auto store anywhere near you. They have REALLY inexpensive electric motors, plus really really cheap gears, pulleys, etc. as well. if not a Princess Auto, I've found that some Army Surplus stores have refurbished or overstock electric motors etc as well.

Http://imgur.com/a/zpSuq#0

Just got done building my own machine. I managed to scavenge nearly everything. Used a wheel chair motor and a speed controller from an electric scooter. for the linear bearing I used a heavy duty drawer slide. For the power supply, I modified two 12v HP server power supplies and linked them in series for 24v. I had some spare nylon from a cutting board and I cut the pitman arm from that and mounted some bearings in it for smooth movement. I had some spare steel rod and such for the main arm and a trimmed down bicycle seat post works great for the tool mount. Already tried it and it works great

Quite an elaborate design you did there. I'd love to try it myself. I envy you very much. Congratulations!

I'm about to build one too. I built one years ago and it was ok but I'm gonna do another better one. I'm using a 12v wiper motor and I'm going to use a pwm to vary the speed. I've seen dc pwm on eBay mostly they are 10 amp does anyone know if 10A is enough to run a wiper motor under load ??????

Put a multi meter across your battery terminal and turn on the wipers with nothing else running. Note the difference, thats' what your wipers are drawing. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

To assess current (amps) the measurement needs to be taken in series with the supply/load not in parallel as it would be across the battery terminals, that would give the voltage drop if any, not the current.

Take your proposed wiper motor, connect a meter on amps range in series (In line) with one of the wires from the motor to one terminal of a car battery then connect the other wire from the motor to the other battery terminal, this will give you the current the motor is drawing.

You'll need to get the polarity of the meter correct or you'll get a minus reading. Best way would be connect the red lead of the meter to the plus (positive) terminal of the battery then the negative (minus) black lead of the meter to the plus connection of the motor, then the other connection of the motor probably the case of the motor to the minus negative terminal of the battery.If you can grab the shaft of the motor whilst it's running to try to slow it down you'll get some idea of the current drawn under load conditions but be careful, these motors are quite powerful.

Some interesting designs, I wish I had the skills and creativity to pull these off.

I had pondered using an electronic linear actuator from the likes of the surpluscenter.com

This would have to be driven by a microcontroller to keep an idea of timing but it seems that with some tests you should be able to independently control both the thrust time and the thrust depth.

The only downfall is they are a bit pricey.

I built one a couple of years ago. I used ebay for the motor and controler, everything else I got from Lowes.

Is there a thread somewhere discussing the use of Vac-U-Lock toys attached to a power drill? I've tried several searches here without success.

Using these anally with a cordless drill is one of the most intense anal sensations I've experienced to date, and I've tried lots of things. Fucking machines, butt plugs and probes up to 3.25" in diameter, speculums, getting pounded mercilessly by my mistress, fisting, you name it and I've probably tried it. I'd love to get a discussion started on this topic if there isn't one already.

I've been using a powerful cordless drill with my Vac-U-Lock toys. The adapter has a round, smooth shaft. Works well, though it's a bit awkward, as the drill is long and difficult to maneuver with a toy attached.

Question: I'd like to try this with my impact driver as it would be quite a bit more compact. I'm looking for a Vac-U-Lock adapter with a hexagonal shaft on it, and can't seem to find one. I can't believe the Mfr of these adapters hasn't thought of this? Has anyone seen one?

The simplest would be a single motor on DC with a DC rayostat dimmer for the speed control hooked up to a wheel which drives a rod, same as the machinery on a steam locomotive but instead of the piston driving the wheels the wheels pump your ass.

If that sounds complex than get an old sawzall and mount a dildo and play around with the speed to make it slower.

If you’re too shy to experiment with a partner how about another guy (or girl?) could drill you with a toy or novelty you’re already comfortable with to help you refine the speed and depth you’re going for. Anyway, I’m amazed at how many guys on this site seem capable of putting one of these contraptions together. For me, there’s a place in Louisiana that I always connect with. It’s “Kens Twisted Mind” (Custom Fucking Machines and Bondage Furniture) and anything you can think of he can build. But in your case, you might just tell him what you’re up to and ask if he’d mind giving you advice, sending some specs, whatever, to make sure you don’t end up with some mean motherfucker of a machine that slips into “Hard & Fast” mode while you’re splayed out at an angle where you can’t reach the “off” button. Considering you’re in Canada, you could get shagged into orbit for days before someone rescued you! Anyway, good luck, I’ll be anxious to see pictures.

We, husband and me, made one using a heavy duty mixmaster i git on Amazon for a couple of hundred dollars. He used a metal adjustable stand to hold it and we took it to a welder so he could weld the platform to

The mixer.

We have used i several times. He ties me spread eagle to the bed, puts a pillow under my bum and puts the dildo in either my ass or pussy. He then takes a long dowel and attaches another different dildo to the end so he can abuse the other unoccupied hole. In this predicament all my jewels are unopposed. Mouth for his cock if he so desires, arse, front hole, breasts and nipples.

It took a few test uses to get it to the point where it is steady etc.

Oh Turkey1, that seems like a good time!

I got a hold of a 12V DC motor and a power source with voltage regulation! I guess it is time to put one together myself! Yeeepy (already looking hard for other parts)!!!

You should look at 12volt auto wiper motors --- gear reduction already built in --- rotary arm drive --- use a ball bearing drawer slide to get linear ---ebay sells PWM speed controls and 12 volt power supply --- mine cost around $75 and is built into a plastic toolbox

Bu77plug, Look at the fuse box in your car. Most wiper motors have a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker.

How about some pictures of these creations for us to see. I'm fascinated with the toolbox idea and the Mixmaster. It would help a lot to see them.

I actually put an ammeter in line and the pickup truck wiper motor is running a about 3 amps --- remember they are made to move large amounts of snow

as soon as I can figure out how to-- I will send a picture

Some things to consider

Get a gear motor like the 90 rpm one here

http://www.grainger.com/category/universal-ac-dc-gearmotors/gearmotors/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-nxf?redirect=gear+motor

It is series wound so a speed controller can slow it down nicely.

You will need a heavey base so it does not slide back and forth on a bed ( Newton's law about action and reaction ). Motor and base should be about 4 pounds. Maybe a bit more.

Put about a 1" arm on it and connect the arm to a rod of at least two feet. Connection should be a swivel ball joint like ones used in machine linkages or atv steering.

The dildo end should be hollow with ID big enough to allow end to pivot at least 15 degrees.

Fasten dildo to rod end with transverse bolt at least 2 inches from rod end of dildo. This will allow comftable agle changes. Recess head and end of bolt.

Motion will be nicely cyclic. Fancier motions can be gotten with a cam and cam follower but they are not worth the trouble.

Do not fasten the base down. You want something to give before damage to tissue.

And do start it from zero speed and make first motor driven motion out, not in.

Also, let her adjust the speed control.

Contact me by e-mail and i can send pictures --- on mail.com -- I am e-mentor --- that's e-mentor@mail.com

Oh, one other thing. Make sure the motor frame connects to the green wire in the electrical cord and the cord has a 3wire plug on end. And get a good speed controller. Be good idea to only plug into a gfi outlet......we don't want a fried gf or one with frizzled hair....most ladies are not fond of electrocution. Gay subs don't like it either.

And forget the Sawzall. Stroke is too short, speed is way too high, noise is off chart and it's dangerous.

Dimmer switches I have found are short-lived and not very reliable. I would suggest looking into a professional/commercial quality variable voltage or variable amperage device on the internet and avoiding the annoying malfunction of a residential quality dimmer switch just when you don't want it to fail you.

Yes. A light dimmer is not good choice. You want something intended for controlling drills, routers and other tools. If money is no object, buy a small servo driven gear motor; they are really controllable. I expect cost will be 500$.

While I am at it, a number of people have used linear slides between the motor and the rod. Not needed and expensive.

Build with motor shaft vertical. So long as rod is long compared to stroke, the angular change as the arm on the motor shaft goes around will be small. 2" stroke, 2' rod. And there is no need to align a linear bearing with a vagina....any angle works. Billions of gas engines and compressors have no linear bearings; only double acting steam engines need them.

Also suggest a flexible rod. Not too flexible so it doesn't buckle, but flexible enough to accommodate misalignment at the receiving end. A cheap fishing rod from Walmart should be good. Cover the last 10 inches with rubber tubing so if rod breaks the jagged end is contained. And resist the urge to tell the checkout clerk why you are buying the rod.....she doesn't want to know.

Actually the motor it self is the linear slide ---- not sure leaving one out is a good idea -- since you can use a ball bearing drawer slide form Lowes or Home depot --cost is under $29 depending on quality and length

Just created an album in the gallery -- shows the F-machine and it's working parts -----I will add other toys later