Today we will take a look at making a gigantic enema bucket.
Just the thing for after a couple days of non stop eating!
Note that this is not to be used near it's full capacity with people! It is nice to be able to use it for mixing up solutions though.
What you need:
A 5 gallon food grade plastic bucket with a lid. Even better if the lid has a pop out pouring spout and the lid for that.
A stainless steel Schrader valve for a tubeless tire. (In the US buy at Autozone)
A bicycle tire pump
A source of heat (I used a vent free propane heater up close)
A tire valve tool (In the US buy at Autozone)
hose clamps or tie wraps
Normal enema plumbing (hose, nozzle etc)
Pliers or wrench for hex nut on tire valve
Cutters or screw driver for hose clamp
Hammer and nail
ruler and sharpie
Making the bucket.
Take one of the tire valves out of the package and identify the parts. There will be the big stainless part, that is the valve, there will be a rubber washer, a stainless washer with a lip that fits over the washer, and a hex nut. There will also be a nice stainless steel valve cap. We will not use that. Save it as a spare for you car.
If you have a bucket with a pull out pour spout, take the top off and you will work on that. If your lid is a solid lid, take take that off and you will be working with that.
Take your ruler and sharpie and draw a line as best as you can through the center of the lid or pour spout lid.
Turn the lid or pour spout lid 90 degrees and draw another line.
The lines should cross in the center, give or take.
Place your nail on the center where the line intersect and use the hammer to drive the nail through.
Put the point of your knife in the hole and rotate it, enlarging the hole. You want the hole to be just large enough for the tire valve to screw through. The flat part of the valve goes to the inside of the bucket.
Take the knife after you have threaded the valve in and trim all the burrs off the hole. You can use the knife against the stainless valve to cut the plastic burrs off.
Once the valve is in and you have the burrs trimmed off, look at the rubber washer and stainless washer that came with the valve. One side of the rubber washer will fit right in the lip of the stainless washer. This is the way these two pieces go. The rubber side slips onto the valve on the outside of the bucket.
Now place the hex nut that came with the valve on the valve and use the pliers or wrench to tighten it down. The hex nut should be against the stainless washer. As you tighten the hex nut down, the rubber washer should get compressed.
We now have the valve mounted and we are ready to make the bucket.
Hook your bike pump to the valve and give it a few pumps. If everything is good you should be able to put several PSI in the bucket. Don't go overboard. We are just verifying we have a good seal. If you don't you might try black tape or duct tape or even RTV, or start over with a better bucket. If you are using a bucket that the lid came off of, verify you have the rubber gasket in the lid. You will never get a good seal without the gasket.
I placed a bar stool on it's side and placed the bucket about 1" away from my shop heater (vent free propane heater). You need enough heat to make the bottom of the bucket a bit hotter than you can sand touching. I gave my bucket a few pumps every few minutes. After a while you will see that the air is starting to make the buckets bottom bulge out. This is what we are after. We want it to bulge out about 2" on the bottom. Go slow with the heat and the pressure. We don't want to liquify the plastic, we just want to make it plastic. It will not take a lot of pressure when you have it hot enough.
Once you have the 2" bulge on the bottom or so, remove from the heat, keep the pressure on it until it has cooled off. I should keep it's new shape.
Congratulations! You are past the hard part! You can take the valve out of the lid now. We will use it again below.
Once the bucket is back to room temperature, mark off the center of the bottom (the part with the bulge it it). Many buckets are molded with the injection point in the center of the bottom so there may even be a little tit there making the marking unnecessary to find the center.
Place the bucket bulge down, and place your nail on the center of the inside of the bucket, and tap it with the hammer to make a hole.
Just like on he lid, use your knife to enlarge the hole until the valve just screws into the hole. Use your knife against the valve to trim any burrs off the hole.
The flat part of the valve goes to the inside of the bucket and the valve protrudes from the bulge. Place the rubber washer on the valve and, and the stainless washer on the rubber washer. Put the hex nut on the valve and tighten it down.
Now, take a look at your valve tool. One side of it will have a little rod protruding out of it with a slit cut out of the rod. Place this in the opening of the valve and gently press down and turn it counter clockwise. You should feel it slip a little and than catch on something. That something is the actual valve inside of the valve stem, and it is threaded into the inside of the stem. Continue to turn the valve tool counter clockwise and after a while the valve should pop out.
If you hold the bucket up to the light you should now see light though the valve stem.
Stretch your enema hose over the valve stem and secure with a small hose clamp or a couple tie wraps. Trim the tie wraps or screw the hose clamps down snug.
That's it! You now have a monster big enema bucket.
Again, please don't try subjecting a human to anywhere near that much water. The large size is nice though if you want to shake or stir up ingredients.